Professional jewelry appraisals cost $50-150 per piece. If you've inherited a box of jewelry or found something at an estate sale, paying that much just to satisfy curiosity doesn't make sense. Here's how to identify jewelry without spending anything.
Read the Stamps
Start with the most reliable free information source: the jewelry itself. Grab a magnifying glass and look for stamps, usually found on the inside of rings, on clasp mechanisms, or on small metal tags attached to necklaces.
Gold stamps tell you purity:
- 999 or 24K = pure gold (99.9%)
- 750 or 18K = 75% gold
- 585 or 14K = 58.5% gold
- 417 or 10K = 41.7% gold
- 375 or 9K = 37.5% gold
Silver stamps work similarly:
- 999 = fine silver
- 925 = sterling silver (92.5% pure)
- 800 = European silver standard
Watch for plating indicators:
- GP = gold plated
- GF = gold filled
- HGE = heavy gold electroplate
- RGP = rolled gold plate
Plated pieces have far less value than solid metal. The difference between "14K" and "14K GP" is substantial.
The Magnet Test
A simple refrigerator magnet reveals basic information quickly. Gold, silver, and platinum are not magnetic. If your jewelry sticks firmly to a magnet, it's steel or iron underneath any plating.
A slight magnetic pull sometimes occurs with white gold (due to nickel alloy content) or certain gold alloys, so weak attraction isn't conclusive. Strong attraction definitely indicates base metal or plating over steel.
The Weight Test
Precious metals feel heavy for their size. This requires some experience, but once you've handled real gold, costume jewelry feels noticeably lightweight in comparison.
A kitchen scale adds precision. Weigh the piece, then research typical weights for similar items. A solid gold ring of a certain size should weigh a predictable amount—significant deviation suggests plating, hollow construction, or different metals.
Visual Inspection
Look for wear patterns. Real gold doesn't change color—if you see silver or copper showing through at edges and clasps, the piece is plated. Genuine gold can tarnish slightly but maintains its color throughout.
Check stone settings. Fine jewelry typically has stones set securely with clean prongs. Costume pieces often use glued stones that may show adhesive or sit unevenly.
Examine the clasp. Quality jewelry has substantial, well-made closures. Thin, flimsy clasps usually indicate costume jewelry regardless of how pretty the front looks.
Free Digital Tools
Several apps offer free identification features:
Google Lens — Photograph your jewelry and search for visual matches. Free and unlimited, good for identifying styles and finding similar pieces online.
Jewelry identification apps — Most offer limited free scans daily. Use your free scans strategically on pieces that puzzle you.
Online hallmark databases — Free websites catalog hallmarks from different countries and eras. Photograph your stamps clearly and compare.
Research the Maker
Found a name or symbol on your piece? Search online. Many costume jewelry brands have collector communities that document marks extensively. You might discover that unmarked brooch is actually valuable Eisenberg Ice.
Look for maker's marks near the metal stamps. Designer initials or company symbols help narrow down origin and era, which affects value even when materials are similar.
When Free Methods Fall Short
Free identification works well for sorting collections into categories: definitely costume, probably precious metal, and worth investigating further.
But free methods have limits. You cannot accurately:
- Grade diamond quality
- Distinguish natural from synthetic gemstones
- Authenticate designer pieces
- Determine exact carat weights
- Get insurance documentation
For pieces that pass your free tests and seem potentially valuable, professional appraisal becomes worthwhile. You've narrowed down which pieces deserve that investment.
Practical Workflow
Here's an efficient free identification process:
- Sort by obvious category: clearly costume vs. possibly real
- Check all "possibly real" pieces for stamps
- Apply the magnet test
- Use free app scans on puzzling pieces
- Research any maker's marks
- Set aside items that pass all tests for professional review
This approach identifies most jewelry correctly without spending money. The pieces that remain uncertain after this process are the ones worth paying an expert to examine.
